68. Ossie Clark

Raymond “Ossie” Clark (9 June 1942 – 6 August 1996) was an English fashion designer who was a major figure in the Swinging Sixtiesscene in London and the fashion industry in that era. Clark is now renowned for his vintage designs by present-day designers.

Clark is compared to the 1960s fashion great Biba and influenced many other designers, including Yves Saint Laurent, Anna Sui and Tom Ford. Manolo Blahnik has said of Ossie Clark’s work: “He created an incredible magic with the body and achieved what fashion should do — produce desire.” Ossie Clark and Ossie Clark for Radley clothes are highly sought after, and are worn by well known models like Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell.

He quickly began to make his mark in the fashion industry, with Alice Pollock’s exclusive boutique Quorum featuring his designs in 1966. Ossie had been introduced to Pollock at his RCA show by Quorum’s backer at the behest of Hockney and so taken with the young designer was she that she immediately decided to bring him in as co designer for Quorum. Ossie presented a collection of white and cream chiffon garments that sold fast. Pollock wanted Clark’s clothes to have a more organic feel and so commissioned Celia Birtwell to produce special textiles for the next collection. In this way, one of fashions most famous collaborations was born: with Ossie Clark designing clothes and Celia Birtwelldesigning prints.

This partnership would last for almost all of Clark’s career in fashion. Author Judith Watt comments: “Celia collaborated with Ossie. This was a joint effort. People say that she was his muse, which indeed she was, but their work absolutely went hand in hand. It was her designs that he used to create his. I think it’s unfair that she not be given that voice”

Ossie was noted, from this period on, for buying six new record albums a week, all from the newest and most popular recording artists. His love of music and art were legendary amongst Ossie’s friends. Also at this time Ossie began to take hard drugs more recreationally with friend and business partner Alice Pollock. “This is when his character began to change” says longtime friend Lady Henrietta Rous.

The first full Ossie Clark collection was bought by the Henri Bendel department store in New York. His simple, elegant dresses were widely copied by the designers on Seventh Avenue.

n 1996, 54-year-old Ossie was stabbed to death in his council flat in Kensington and Chelsea, London, by his 28-year-old Italian former lover, Diego Cogolato. Cogolato was convicted of manslaughter on the grounds of diminished responsibility and jailed for six years